Azienda Agricola Brezza Giacomo e Figli - Barolo Cannubi 2017
The Brezza Family has been making wine and farming vineyards in Barolo since 1885. Enzo is the fourth generation of the family to lead the estate, where they have an enviable holding of vineyards in Barolo including the Cru sites of Castellero, Sarmassa and the famous Cannubi. As a matter of fact, it was Enzo who (along with his cousin, Maria Teresa Mascarello) lead an effort against the expansion of the Cannubi vineyard, which would have diluted the quality of the name by extending the boundaries to non-traditional sites. Their advocacy allowed the vineyard to keep its traditional delimitation on the sandy soils of the east-facing hillside vineyard, thus preserving the esteemed name of Cannubi and its legendary quality.
All Brezza’s grapes are grown organically and hand harvested. In the cellar, only native yeasts are used for fermentation and the wines undergo long macerations and extended aging in large Slavonian oak botti. All their Barolos are made with the same vinification techniques in order to showcase the differences of terroir in each vintage. Enzo may be firmly rooted in tradition, but his knowledge as an oenologist allows him to craft traditional wines that are clean, precise and among the best in Barolo.
The 2017 vintage was the hottest and driest ever in Barolo, though you wouldn't know if from the freshness and elegance to be found in many of the wines. Partly this is because of when the heat was most intense — during the late spring and early summer. In fact, August, September and October were each the three coolest months compared to the same months from the 2014-2019 vintages. For the late ripening Nebbiolo grape, these cool conditions at the end of the growing season allow for the development of complex aromas, flavors and tannins while retaining freshness and verve. Combined with skillfull farming, producers like Enzo Brezza were able to make wines that defy the stereotype of a hot and dry vintage.
The Cannubi vineyard is arguably the most historic single vineyard in all of Barolo: In fact, the oldest bottle of "Barolo" is actually labeled as Cannubi 1752! These wines are distinctive, aromatically intense, powerful yet with an unyielding elegance. The soils are a mix of silt, sand, and clay, a merging of two of the four geological formations that characterize Barolo. Enzo's 2017 Cannubi showcases the haunting aromas and flavors Cannubi is known for: red currant, cherry, strawberry, licorice, sandalwood, roses, earth, and leather. The nose gives you a tease of the haunting aromas into which great Nebbiolo can mature. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with excellent weight, depth of flavor and structure. Firm, mouth-coating tannins and zippy acidity perfectly frame all the complex flavors, leading into a long and elegant finish. This is a world-class wine that will age beautifully for 15+ years!
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